INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 distearates; glyceryl stearate Citrates
Skinfeel NC MB is completely based on renewable raw materials. In addition, the emulsifier is particularly suitable for emulsions with a pH value of 3.5 to 8.5 and is very well applicable with organic acids.
No polyacrylate based thickeners are required for stabilizing an emulsion with Skinfeel NC MB; this is a great benefit, especially in the current microplastic debate.
The recommended application concentration is approx. 3.0% in creams and 1.5 -3.0% in lotions.
Typical oil phase contents of Skinfeel NC MB-based emulsions are 15-45% for creams and 10-25% for lotions. It is also possible to formulate systems with high oil Content (e. g. 50%) on Skinfeel NC MB basis.
Typical combinations for O/W creams are 2.5 - 4.0% Skinfeel NC MB with 2.5 - 4.0% consistency enhancers. In most O/W lotions, 2 - 3% Skinfeel NC MB is sufficient to obtain the desired viscosity and stability profile without additional consistency enhancers. Skinfeel NC MB can be used with natural polymeric thickeners such as xanthan gum. It is recommended to combine Skinfeel NC MB with Xanthan Gum (0.2% for creams and 0.3 to 0.5% for lotions) to optimize the texture and stability of the emulsions. In order to prevent the lamellar structures from being impaired by emulsifiers and consistency enhancers, it is advisable to add xanthan gum emulsions at temperatures below 40 °C. In order to avoid this effect, it is advisable to add xanthan gum emulsions at temperatures below 40 °C.
Skinfeel NC MB belongs to the group of so-called lipid emulsifiers. Since lipid emulsifiers are optimized for the formation of lamellar structures in O/W emulsions, they have a lower HLB value. It is recommended to avoid adding the hot water phase to the hot oil phase while stirring. This "reverse" processing is likely to result in the formation of a W/O emulsion (identifiable by its high viscosity). For the preparation of creams and lotions, the oil and water phases should be heated separately to 70 to 80 °C. The oil and water phases should be heated separately. It is recommended to add the hot oil phase to the hot water phase while stirring. The coarsely dispersed pre-emulsion is then homogenized. During the homogenization process, the stirrer must be placed in the water phase to ensure that the oil phase is incorporated into the water phase. During cooling, a constant horizontal and vertical movement of the emulsion must be ensured. The viscosity of the liquid emulsion increases to a creamy consistency as the consistency enhancers solidify.
Preservation and possible perfuming of the finished product should be carried out at temperatures below 40°C.
The composition of the Skinfeel NC MB (INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate; Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) has been optimized in such a way that its application properties are comparable to those of „Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate“.
|Appearance:||light yellow Pellets|
|Important criteria:||RSPO Mass Balance approved for COSMOS certified cosmetics|
|Product type/product type:||O/W-Emulsifier|
|Skin type/condition:||every skin type|
|Comment:||Body care Face care|
|CAS Nummer:||94423-19-5, 91744-39-7|
|Lipid phase level:||15-45% for creams and 10-25% for lotions|
|ISO 16128:||Natural Index 0 / Natural Origin Index 1|